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| Satellite TVRO Part 2 Satellite transponders are simple repeaters that downconvert the incoming signal before rebroadcasting it. There are a limited number of satellites and a limited amount of RF spectrum in which to send and receive these signals, so to overcome these limitations, several methods have been implemented to expand the number of signals that a communication satellite can handle. Polarization Each transponder’s frequency band is allowed to overlap the next one, because each transponder has a different polarity than the transponders on either side of it. Using crosspolarity reduces the amount of crosstalk between adjacent transponders and reduces the amount of frequency spectrum required. Broadcast communication satellites use linear polarity, i.e. horizontal and vertical. But in direct-to-home satellite transmissions, as well as others, circular polarity is the standard where there is right-hand circular polarity (RHCP) and left-hand circular polarity (LHCP). (See Figure 1.) ![]() Figure 1. Polarities used by satellite transponders Switching between polarities provides 20db-40dB of isolation, which allows overlapping frequency bands between crosspolarized transponders. Receiving antennas are aligned to receive signals of one or the other polarity, whether linear or circular. The physical design of the antenna determines which polarity is passed through. For linearly polarized antennas, a motor can move the probe of the antenna and shift it from horizontal to vertical and back again, so one output can present either polarity’s signal. Other linear antennas can supply both polarities at the same time to two different ports. The polarity of a linear antenna must be set precisely to be able to receive the intended polarity. Circular polarity antennas can be designed for LHCP, RHCP or both, but only one polarity can be delivered to one port; to receive both polarities, two ports are required. Circular polarization has two main advantages over linear polarization. First, when setting up a receive antenna, there is no alignment of the polarity because the antenna is designed to accept the correct polarity. Second, circularly polarized signals cannot be depolarized. When polarized signals pass through the atmosphere, they can become depolarized, where the off-axis shift of the polarity of the signals (in linearly polarized signals) causes a reduction in the desired polarity and an increase in the opposite polarity, resulting in interference. This effect is most noticeable in the lower-frequency C-band signals. Due to the nature of circularly polarized waves, a rotation of the signal will not affect its reception. Fractionalized transponders Normally, a single uplink facility sends a signal up to (illuminates) a satellite transponder, but with precise control, several uplink facilities can transmit to a single transponder. This cuts down on costs and conserves transponder usage. To do this, all the uplink facilities must coordinate with the satellite’s control center and keep the power levels very close. This is very specialized and is not used for normal TV transmissions. (See Figure 2.) ![]() Figure 2: Fractionalized transponder plot Frequencies For C-band satellites, the uplink frequencies are 5.925GHz–6.425GHz. Once the satellite’s transponder downconverts the signals, they are downlinked on 3.7MHz–4.2Mhz. Ku-band satellite uplink frequencies are 14GHz–14.5GHz, and the satellite’s transponder downlinks them on 11.7GHz–12.7 GHz. (See Figure 3.) ![]() Figure 3: Transponder frequencies These signals are received at the antenna and fed into a low-noise block converter where the signal is amplified and mixed with a local oscillator (LO) to produce a lower set of frequencies that will travel a longer distance over coax cable to the receiver or integrated receiver-decoder. Different LOs are used for different frequency bands, so the resulting frequencies fall into a common band enabling a receiver to use a single intermediate-frequency front-end to receive several different types of satellite signals. That common band for C and Ku is 950MHz-1450Mhz. The LO used for C-band is 5150MHz, and the resulting signals are above the LO. For the Ku-band, the LO is 10750MHz, and the resulting output is below the LO. The stability of the LO can have a great effect on the quality of the signal you receive, or even if you get a signal. Just as with today’s over-the-air DTV signal that can carry more than one program, so, too, can satellite transmissions. If your station transmits more than one program, then you have two or more encoders whose outputs are combined in a multiplexer and sent on to your digital transmitter. For DTV, we are limited to one 6Mhz-wide channel and the 8-VSB modulation method, which give every station a data rate of 19.4Mb/s. For satellites, a transponder’s bandwidth can be as wide as 70MHz, and the modulation methods have evolved over the years from BPSK and QPSK to SP-QPSK. All these modulation methods provide a higher data rate with which to pass more information within a smaller bandwidth. The “PSK” of all these methods stands for phase shift keying. Binary PSK is where there are only two states of the carrier’s phase, so it can only represent one bit of data, one or zero. Quadrature PSK is where there are four states of the carrier’s phase, which means that it can represent two bits at every state. Just as in 8-VSB, where there are eight different amplitude levels, each amplitude level represents a single symbol. A symbol corresponds to one of eight possible combinations of three bits, so each symbol sent transmits three bits of data, an eightfold increase of data flow. (See Figure 4.) ![]() Figure 4: Determining symbol rate 8PSK is similar to 8-VSB in that it also has eight different states. One of the newest modulation methods is SP-QPSK (sinusoidal-shaped π/4 QPSK), which is a more efficient way to modulate the satellite carrier and something The Associated Press has just started using. The symbol rate is the number of symbols sent per second. It contains the data rate and the forward error correction (FEC) data. The symbol and data rates correspond to each other, and a formula can be used to convert between the two. (See Figure 5.) ![]() Figure 5: Data/symbol rate conversion FEC is an important part of digital broadcasting. In satellite transmissions, the amount of error correction is stated as follows: 1/2, 2/3, 3/4, 7/8. The first number is the number of actual data bits, followed by the total number of bits transmitted. The difference is the amount of error correction bits. So for an FEC of 1/2, there is one error correction bit for data every bit. At the other end, an FEC of 7/8 means there is one error correction bit for every seven data bits. An FEC of 1/2 equals a great deal of error correction, which will tolerate smaller antennas and lower-quality receive equipment, while an FEC of 7/8 means the signal provider is trying to squeeze as much data through as possible and may require a bigger antenna and higher-quality receive equipment. Conclusion All of the methods described allow for more data to be sent through fewer frequencies. Satellite transmission requires a great deal of high-tech equipment to be able to reliably send and receive the programs that TV stations use every day.
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| Satellite TVRO Part 3 Back in the 1980s, the way to find a satellite with your 5m satellite dish was to move its azimuth over a degree or two and them move elevation up and down while looking for any sign of a sync bar from the analog receiver. This would go on until you found a signal, and then you fine-tuned the azimuth, elevation and polarity and hoped it was the satellite you wanted. These days, it’s a little different. There are very few analog signals to look for, which means you need specialized equipment to monitor the satellite signals and to identify them. This tutorial will cover today’s satellite equipment and how to use them to locate the desired satellite. Antenna basics There are three types of satellite dishes in use today: Cassegrain, parabolic and offset. (See Figure 1.) Each has advantages for its particular application. It’s common to refer to the dish itself as the “antenna,” but it is only the reflector. The actual antenna is contained within the feed horn, where the RF is received and turned into electrical signals. ![]() Figure 1. Types of satellite dishes Satellite dishes range in size from 18in to 70m. The most common for broadcast use is a parabolic dish in the 2m to 4m range, which is measured across the dish’s width. Cassegrain dishes are more commonly found in very large dishes, 5m and larger, and the LNBs are located within the hub of the dish where it’s more easily accessible. Small offset dishes are used for direct-to-home satellite reception and can be seen in most neighborhoods. But larger offset dishes of up to 6ft work very well for Ku-band reception. Satellite dishes come in one of three basic configurations: solid, mesh and petal. A solid dish is just that — solid, made of a single piece of metal — which makes for higher delivery costs but will assure a longer trouble-free lifetime. (See Figure 2.) Mesh dishes are very common in backyards for “free-to-air” satellite programming. The largest is usually 10ft to 12ft. Mesh dishes suffer from a shorter lifetime, but this can be offset by their lower cost and less wind resistance. The petal configuration is easier to ship because it comes in pieces, each shaped like a triangle or petal. These are almost always made out of fiberglass with a metal structure to support the pieces and attach them to the mounting post. While they do work very well, petal dishes do not age well, and if you need to move them, there is the definite risk of unintentional damage. The only variable for dishes is their gain, which is directly related to their size. The bigger the dish, the more gain it has, so it can pickup weaker signals with less noise. ![]() Figure 2. Satellite dish configurations There is one more type of dish: the very wide-angle dish that can see the entire arc of satellites, or over 100 degrees, all at once. These are massive structures that weigh several tons and require very precise installation. Their advantage is the ability to see all satellites at once; to receive a new satellite, only a low-noise block converter (LNB) must be installed at the correct location. The downside is their cost and amount of space they require, but it’s the only dish you ever need to install. The components of a satellite dish include the mounting pole, the mounting frame, the dish itself, the feed horn and the LNBs. The mounting pole is sunk into the ground and cemented in place, attached to a stand that sits on the ground or, in the case of a roof, a “nonpenetrating” mount is used. These last two must use weights to hold the mount, and the pole, in place. How much weight depends on the size of the dish, the type of dish and where it is being mounted. Without enough weight, the dish can move in high winds, throwing off the satellite dish’s aim. The pole must be plum for a steerable dish to be able to track the satellite arc correctly; fixed dish imitations only require the pole to be close to plum because the adjustments will compensate for errors. The mounting frame is either Az-El or polar. Az-El stands for azimuth-elevation, where each parameter can be adjusted independently, most common on fixed dish mounts. A polar mount allows the dish to track the arc of the satellites in the Clarke Belt with a single movement from east to west. The polar mount causes the dish to change elevation during the east-west movement. This is almost exclusively used on motorized, steerable dishes. The feed horn is the antenna of the satellite dish. Its position above the center of the dish sets the focus point for the reflected satellite signals from the dish. This focal length adjustment is a critical part of setting up a dish. It is also where the polarity of the received signal is selected. Feed horns also come in a number of configurations. The LNBs attach to the feed horn to receive the satellite signal and downconvert it to a frequency band that the receiver will accept. For broadcasters, LNBs are either for C-band or Ku-band signals. Some feed horns will accept one C and one Ku on the same polarity or two C or two Ku each on a separate polarity, so all transponders on a satellite can be received at the same time. (See Figure 3.) ![]() Figure 3. Components of a satellite dish Aligning a fixed dish The three parameters for satellite dish positioning are elevation, azimuth and polarity. Elevation is the angle of the dish above the horizon; Azimuth is the angle the dish is facing on the compass scale; and Polarity is the angle of the receive antenna within the feed horn in relation to the polarity of the signal sent by the desired satellite. Properly adjusting all three of these parameters will allow you to pick up the satellite you want. (See Figure 4.) ![]() Figure 4. Adjustments of a fixed dish If your satellite dish was located on the equator, the dish would be pointed straight up at a 90-degree angle, and then swung from east to west and all the satellites would be picked up — this is not the case for most of us. That straight line (east to west) at the equator is the line of geostationary satellites; as our dish moves north of the equator, that line becomes elliptical. The further north we move (higher latitudes), the more pronounced the elliptical curve of the geostationary satellites becomes. So we not only move the satellite dish from east to west, but also raise and lower its elevation to be able to track all the satellites in the Clarke Belt. For fixed or stationary satellite dishes, you simply raise it to a fixed elevation above the horizon and aim it at a particular point on the compass, and the satellite you are looking for should be there (or close to it). There are many Web sites that allow you to enter your satellite dish’s location and which satellite you are looking for, and it will provide you with the elevation and azimuth readings to align your dish. To find your dish’s elevation, it’s easiest to use an inclinometer or digital level, which measures the tilt or incline of an object. There are mechanical inclinometers with a large dial and the electronic variety that look like a carpenter’s level and have a digital readout — either one should work fine. The hardest part of setting a dish’s elevation is to find a flat space on the back of the dish where you can place the inclinometer that is perpendicular to the dish’s line of sight to the satellite. The back of all dishes is rounded, so that makes it harder to use; a part of the mounting frame can be used if it is parallel to the dish. The most assured way to measure elevation on a parabolic or Cassegrain dish is to place a straight board across the face of the dish, make sure it’s resting on the edges and then measure the elevation on the board. Offset dishes pose their own set of problems in setting elevation, because the line of sight to the satellite is not perpendicular to the face of the dish. To align an offset dish, you must contact the manufacturer for the correct placement of the inclinometer.
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| Satellite TVRO Part 4 Although satellite dishes are used extensively, steerable dishes can be frustratingly difficult to setup correctly. Polar and HH dishes require more attention to detail when first installed. Their dish mount is designed is such a way that as it moves through its azimuth range, the elevation changes to match the arc of satellites in the sky. This is a more complex mount to design and install, but it is simpler to operate because it only uses one motor. Declination On a polar dish mount, you will find a declination adjustment that is only used during installation; this rotates the entire dish mount in an arc, similar to elevation adjustments. Normally, the look angle of the dish would be parallel to the elevation adjustment frame so the two would always match elevation angles, but here a declination adjustment is found that allows for an offset between the elevation adjustment frame’s angle and the dish’s look angle. This is only adjusted at the time of installation. As the dish’s installation site moves north from the equator, the arc it must follow to match the satellites in the Clarke Belt changes in shape. (See Figure 1.) ![]() Figure 1: Declination adjustment Declination is the adjustment used to compensate for this change in the arc due to latitude. The range is from 1 degree near the equator to 8.5 degrees near the North Pole. The dish actually rotates on the elevation adjustment frame’s axis angle. This is an important adjustment that many installers misalign. When not adjusted correctly, the satellites at the zenith of the arc may be correct, but incorrect at either end of the arc. (See Figure 2.) ![]() Figure 2: Satellite dish arc Polar and HH Polar dishes use a drive screw that pushes or pulls the dish through its arc. There is a standard setup where polar dishes have the actuator arm (screw) placed on the west side (viewed from the back) of a dish installed in the eastern half of the United States (linear west) and on the east side of the dish in the western half (linear east). This allows the actuator arm to push the dish up the arc and lets gravity help pull it down. In the eastern United States, most satellites are higher toward the west and reversed in the western United States. (See Figure 3.) ![]() Figure 3: Polar-mounted dish To set up a polar dish, its mounting pole must be exactly plum, because any tilt will throw off the dish’s alignment as it moves through the arc. The next step is to move the dish to its highest elevation or zenith and aim due south, or 180 degrees on a corrected compass heading. Keep in mind that compasses will always display an error due to magnetic variations in the Earth. To compensate for this, you must add a correction factor, for your area, to your compass reading to obtain a true north-south heading. Many online Web sites carry such information. For example, pick a satellite that shares the same longitude in the Clarke Belt as the dish’s longitude. If the dish was located in Denver, its longitude would be 105 degrees, and at 105 degrees west in the Clarke Belt we find AMC 18 and AMC 15. With the dish at its highest elevation in its polar arc, adjust its declination angle to the value on the chart; in this case, Denver’s latitude is 39.7 degrees, which equates to a declination of 5.63 degrees. The declination angle always causes the dish’s elevation to be lower. With declination set, adjust the elevation frame until the dish, not the frame, is at the correct elevation — in this case, 44 degrees. At this point, small adjustments can be made to elevation, but not declination, and rotating the dish on its pole should bring in the best possible signal. Once that is accomplished and the dish is fixed to the pole, find a satellite at either end of the arc and check to see if you get a good signal from them. A small adjustment of the dish east or west (rotating it on its pole just a little) should be all that is necessary. Once you have good signals from satellites at the peak and either end of the dish’s arc, lock down the all adjustments. Note that the arc is rather flat at the zenith and small adjustments east-west will not affect reception very much. Now the dish will see every satellite within its arc; the controller just has to remember the position of the dish at each satellite. HH setup is very similar. These dish mounts use a chain drive on a half circle frame to rotate the dish through its arc. Declination is set in the same way as above. Some HH dish mounts have a second motor used for declination adjustment to track inclined orbiting satellites. Once again, the declination adjustment must be set at installation as above for it to be able to properly track all the satellites in the Clarke Belt. If you do not track inclined orbiting satellites, you will have no need to adjust this further. Otherwise, you need a way to track any movement of this declination motor so it can be repositioned back to its normal setting so the dish will track the satellite arc correctly. (See Figure 4.) ![]() Figure 4: HH-mounted dish Az-El Az-El dishes do not require any alignment other than making sure the azimuth swing is centered on 180 degrees due south. After that, the two actuator arms can move the dish in any direction to find any satellite. (See Figure 5.) This freedom allows the dish to follow any satellite, even those with a high degree of inclination, moving north and south in their orbit. These dishes require a two-motor controller to move them. ![]() Figure 5 Feed horn As stated previously, the dish is not the antenna. The antenna resides inside the feed horn, which is mounted above the dish where the signals from the satellite are reflected from the dish and into the feed horn. The feed horn’s antenna, which is inside it, must be set at the correct focus point above the dish where the reflected signals come to a focus point. The position of the feed horn is determined by dish manufacturer, or when the low-noise block converters are installed, the focus point can be adjusted by hand for maximum signal strength.
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| Satellite TVRO Part 5 In this tutorial, we will cover the steps and equipment required to bring in a satellite feed, including the site survey, feed horn and LNB selection, cables and connectors, spectrum analyzers and satellite finders and other equipment used to tune in a satellite feed. Site survey To begin you need to know the satellite, transponder (with polarity), frequency with modulation type, symbol rate and forward error correction (FEC). This is all you need to be able to receive the feed. Using one of the satellite Web sites, select the required satellite and look up its map or footprint page. Here you will see the predicted contours of its signal strength; find where your location is, and mark the signal strength. Typically, the signal in the middle of the United States is higher than at the coasts, where the signal starts to fall off. Using the chart in Figure 1, you can see what size dish is required. Opt to go with at least the next size up to give yourself some headroom when the signal fades due to weather or misalignment. ![]() Figure 1. Satellite signal strength to dish size When selecting the site for the dish, be on the lookout for obstacles such as buildings and trees. You can use a compass and a paper towel tube with an inclinometer attached to check the site lines for obstacles. Remember that trees grow, and the tree that’s not in the way today may be a problem in the future if it’s not trimmed on a regular basis. Sun outages can occur when the sun, satellite and the dish form a straight line, and the sun’s energy overwhelms the low-noise block converter (LNB) blocking the satellite’s signal. This occurs twice a year, and they can be predicted ahead of time. With the dish’s location and the satellite name, the date and times of the outage can be found by using online tools such as Code: http://www.satellite-calculations.com. There are several different types of feed horns that can be used depending on what is required. There are both single- and dual-polarity feed horns, for when you need signals from all transponders in a single band. There are even dual-polarity C-/Ku-band feed horns that supply all of the signals a satellite has to offer. Fine-tuning the alignment of a fixed dish will be quicker and more accurate by using Ku-band reception, which is three times more sensitive to dish alignment compared to C-band. So first, be sure that the satellite in question is transmitting Ku-band signals before starting. For C-band, an adjustment screw can be rotated several times before the signal starts to change, but with Ku-band, that same screw may only take a one-fourth or one-half turn to see a change. If the dish will not be receiving Ku-bands feeds, it’s a good idea to temporally install a Ku-band feed horn and LNB just for alignment. There are only two possible adjustments to any feed horn: polarity and focal point. The focal point is the distance from the bottom of the dish’s bowl to the lip of the feed horn. It may be supplied by the manufacturer of the dish, or it can be calculated. (See Figure 2.) ![]() Figure 2. Determining feed horn focal point Polarity is the alignment of the antenna within the feed horn to the signal sent by the satellite. For steerable dishes, the feed horn’s polarity is rotated, or adjusted by a small servo motor. As the dish moves from satellite to satellite, the polarity must change with each one, because the dish actually rotates in relation to the satellites as it moves through its arc, and this must be compensated for. On fixed dishes, the feed horn is manually rotated to find the correct polarity and peak it. Once you have the focal point set, it’s a good idea to run a felt tip marker around the upper edge so the focal point can be maintained when polarity is adjusted. Be sure to install the cap on the open end of the feed horn to keep moisture and bugs out. There have been instances of insects making a nest within the feed horn. (See Figure 3.) ![]() Figure 3. A feed horn and its components When feeds from two adjacent satellites are required, multibeam feed horn assembly can be used. Two separate feed horns can be attached and focused on two satellites that are from 2 degrees to 8 degrees apart. Overall gain is reduced, but with proper planning, this system reduces the number of dishes required. LNB LNBs contain a local oscillator (LO) that is used to downconvert the incoming satellite signal to the intermediate frequency (IF). Ku-band uses 10750MHz for its LO, and C-band uses 5150MHz. The stability of the LO is stated on the label in kilohertz and can range from 2kHz to 500kHz. The smaller the number, the more stable the LO and the higher the cost. Today’s newest digital modulation methods now require more stable LNBs (about 100kHz), so the receiver does not have to track the IF from the LNB. It is best to purchase the most stable LNB, because it will be feeding any future digital receivers you install. (See Figure 4.) ![]() Figure 4. C-band LNB If you need to feed more than one receiver, a power splitter will do the job. Because LNBs require about 18V to work, the power has to come from a source. That source is usually the receiver, but with two of them (and only one feeding power to the LNB), the power splitter will only pass DC from one of its two inputs. But if you shut down that receiver, the signal is lost to the other one. Another way is to use a power injector that uses a separate power supply to feed the LNB. This way the loss of either receiver will not cause the loss of the other one. Also, adding a surge protector is a good idea to prevent lighting strikes from damaging your receivers. Cables and connectors Generally, if the distance from the dish to the receiver is about 100ft or less, then RG6 cable will work very well. For longer runs, it best to move to a lower-loss cable such as RG11. If the distance is very long, then you should consider fiber optics. Some converters will take the entire IF and transport it over a fiber-optic cable, and then feed it to your satellite receivers at the other end. This is rather specialized work, and a qualified professional should be consulted about the installation. When running the cable from the LNB, put a connector on it within a few feet of the dish. You will need to use a barrel to complete the run, but this will allow you to easily test the system without accessing the LNB. With large dishes, it can be difficult to gain access to the LNBs, and this will save time and effort. Except for the simplest/shortest runs, avoid using satellite ribbon cable. These come with two coax and two control cables configured side by side. They are nearly impossible to pull through conduit, and they will all have to come out if you need to change just one cable. Water and moisture are some of the most common reason for TVRO systems to fail or loose signal level. This is why watertight F connectors must always be used for outdoor connections. The most common type is compression-fit F connectors. Before screwing them on, a small boot is placed over the threaded female and the connector is attached, ensuring a watertight fit. Always use the correct tools to attach the connectors, especially the RG11 connectors. A poor fit will cause the connector to come off or add attenuation, at the least. When using RG11, always use a barrel at the end and run the last several feet using RG6, which is more flexible. This will make the installation and servicing much easier. Lastly, make sure all connectors are tight. Loose-fitting connectors cause many avoidable problems. Finding the satellite Today, there are many devices out there that will help you find the satellite you want, and some that just help you peak the signal strength. There are dedicated satellite finders that have the built-in capability of a spectrum analyzer and digital receiver with PSIP decoder. These most often are used by professional installers, and some also receive and decode DTV as well. Then there are the signal strength meters used to just peak the signal at the dish once it’s acquired and verified by the satellite receiver downstairs. An alternative that is available to most TV stations is the spectrum analyzer at the transmitter. It can easily be used to find satellites and fine-tune the dish. For much less than a traditional analyzer, there are also spectrum analyzers that only cover the IF spectrum of LNBs. Both this and the traditional spectrum analyzer work in the same way. With the analyzer from the transmitter, you will need to supply power to the LNB. A power splitter that supplies DC power from only one of the two ports will work; you can connect that one to the line from the receiver. An inline power inserter will also do the job. Just make sure you don’t feed DC to the analyzer. Looking at the IF band from 950MHz to 1200 MHz, the satellite signal can be peaked while monitoring the screen. Polarity needs to be adjusted for the deepest valleys, not just the peaks. The stated frequency of a transponder is at the center of the channel, so to find which polarity you are on, look at the center frequency of one channel and compare it to the transponder frequency list for that satellite. (See Figure 5.) ![]() Spectrum analyzer shot of satellite IF Conclusion With the right equipment and direction, you can set up a satellite dish yourself and align it to find the signal you are looking for. It may take a few tries, but the satisfaction of understanding how to do it and being able to do so make it well worth the effort.
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